These are all manifestations of aggressive tendencies that will probably lead to a bite incident someday. If you notice anything like this, take immediate action. Certainly setting limits, rewarding only positive behavior, not responding emotionally, and evaluating diet are things you should implement around your home right away. Of course, reinforcing limits with an aggressive dog can cause the aggression to escalate.
This is the contact information for the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, a national organization of certified, reward-oriented dog trainers and behaviorists. If you want to feed him leftovers, put them in his food bowl and incorporate them into regular meals. If you have a beggar, start crating or confining him. Steel yourself and your family to suffer through the barking and whining for as long as it takes.
Only release him from the confinement when he is quiet. All dogs need to chew. Encourage him to use that spot by burying something there that he needs to dig out. Praise him when he does. Set up a small sandbox in your yard where your dog can dig. Put him someplace safe confined , and give him toys and chews to play with.
Or take him outside for a walk and direct him to his digging spot.
Enlist a friend or neighbor, as well as other family members, to help redirect this behavior. Put your dog on his leash, have someone ring the doorbell, approach with your dog, and ask the dog to sit. He sits, you open the door. When the person comes in, give them a couple of treats and have them ask the dog to sit.
He sits, he gets a treat. Ask him to sit first, and be sure he does. Then the person should turn around and ask him to sit, too. Repeat until the dog complies. If your puppy begins to jump on you, turn your back and ignore him. Praise him and give him a treat when all four paws are on the ground. When you have visitors, make sure your puppy is on a leash before you open the door. This will enable you to control his behavior. Keep your hands and arms close to your body. Be a statue if possible, even if the dog is jumping up on you.
If he is playing with others this way, have them stop moving and get up slowly, paying no attention to the dog. When he has settled enough to physically handle him without re-exciting him, pick him up or lead him to his crate or room of confinement. Give a long time-out for this offense. As soon as anyone gets overexcited, calm it down and stop it. This is the term used by some veterinarians and trainers to refer to dogs who go crazy when left alone, attempting to destroy their surroundings, barking and crying uncontrollably, and otherwise causing havoc.
To combat this reaction, acclimate your dog to your comings and goings by starting small and making the experience a positive one. Without making a big fuss over it, decide to leave the house. Put your dog in his crate or a confinement room with a favorite chew toy, turn the radio on to a classical or soft rock station something soothing and, without saying another word, pick up your coat, bag, and car keys and leave the house. Walk around the house quietly, listening to or spying on your dog without him knowing. Give him a couple of minutes, depending on whether he gets upset when you leave or not.
If he does get upset, allow him some time to settle down. Do not run to him and smother him with kisses. Put on his leash and bring him outside, just as you would if you were returning from a longer trip. Let him learn that you come home and take care of his needs. Do this a few times a day in the first days and weeks, increasing the amount of time you are gone from the house. Consider working with a dog trainer and your veterinarian. Your dog may need a medication that could help with his nerves while training him to handle things better.
The way to investigate this is to record a video of your dog from before the time you prepare to leave right through and past the time they toilet in your home so you can check on their behavior. Treating a dog for separation anxiety requires teaching them to be happy with, or at least tolerant of time spent alone.
This is done by way of systematic desensitization and counter-conditioning. This involves exposing your dog to ever-increasing time alone, starting with very short separations that do not result in anxiety, slowly increasing the time of separations over many weeks and months.
A professional trainer can design a specific treatment program tailored to your individual dog while training you in how to treat the condition. This is extremely important because separation anxiety severely lowers a dogs quality of life and can even lead to them harming themselves. Successful and effective treatment is of utmost importance so you will want to get it right.
For a good overview of separation anxiety, please read: Separation Anxiety from the ASPCA, and linked to from that article, the techniques of Desensitization and Counter-conditioning , two methods used during treatment. Urine marking, also known as scent marking, is typified by a dog raising their leg to urinate high on vertical objects. Sometimes the behavior can come from a feeling of anxiety around strange new objects in their environment. They will sometimes through anxiety feel the need to scent mark unfamiliar items such as a new pets bedding, or the suitcase of a guest in your home.
You can distinguish urine marking from standard urination by the amount that is produced. Urine marking is just small little squirts in comparison to a full emptying of the bladder. Although urine marking is most often seen in intact males, it can also be seen in neutered males and even the occasional female too. If the marking stems from anxiety, socializing your dog to the sight and smell of the new object will help, as will forming positive associations with it by regularly placing treats nearby and spending time playing around or even with it.
Also, as many as 2 in 3 intact dogs stop the behavior after neutering so this treatment is worth considering. Though you should read up on the pros and cons of the procedure first before taking such drastic action: Finally, follow common house training methods, cleaning away all traces of previous scent marking , constantly supervising your dog to interrupt and correct their marking and so on.
You can identify the issue as submissive urination if your dog urinates when somebody approaches, stands tall over them or starts to verbally or physically punish them. Other submissive body language will also be displayed such as cowering low, ears pinned back, turning their body sideways and avoiding eye contact, maybe even rolling over to expose their belly.
Excitement urination is different to submissive urination in both the emotion the dog is feeling and the events that lead to the problem. Excitement urination will occur with a dog who gets overly excited. Usually it occurs when a family member returns home from a day away, when meeting new people or when somebody showers them with praise and affection.
Both excitement and submissive urination are most regularly seen in puppies and young female dogs, though it can happen in dogs of any age or gender. It appears mostly in timid dogs, those that are overall very submissive, somewhat fearful and lack confidence in themselves. For submissive urination, the treatment is to avoid verbal and physical punishment or anything that makes your dog feel threatened or dominated.
Secondly, you need to build their confidence through lots of socialization. Expose them to positive life experiences in all kinds of environments, with all types of people and other animals present. As their confidence grows over time, their fear levels will fall and the problem will slowly go away. To treat excitement urination you need to prevent your dog from getting over-excited.
This means keeping greetings subdued and learning the signs of over excitement so you know when to back off and calm things down during play. If your dog only seems to potty on a particular surface, they may have developed a preference for a single surface type to use as a toilet. But usually, a dog will develop a preference for the soft feel of grass under their feet and unfortunately a deep shag pile carpet is very similar. Firstly, teach your dog to eliminate on command so they know you want them to go. However, this alone will not be enough to overcome their preference.
Secondly, combine the surface your dog prefers with the one you want them to go on, slowly switching them over from one surface to another by mixing the two. You can buy a couple of rolls of turf and lay them over the concrete for them to use as a toilet. Then reduce the thickness of the grass by cutting it.
More Problem Solving
Then swap the turf for just grass cuttings. Next reduce the grass cuttings bit by bit until eventually there is none and your dog is happy to eliminate on concrete. You can use the same technique with whatever surface your dog is refusing to use as a toilet while following the usual house training techniques to discourage pottying inside.
Some dogs hate to toilet outside in cold and wet conditions, particularly small breeds and those with single short coats. If your dog normally pottys outside without any problems but refuses to during cold conditions, only to eliminate when back inside your home, this is a probable cause.
You can buy a purpose made coat for your dog or puppy, as well as thermal boots. These will help to fight off the cold and make them happier to be outside. This will protect them from the wind, and keep them sheltered from the rain and snow. This will go a long way to helping them feel more comfortable and hopefully happy to go. Next, make sure you go out and stay outside with them! They will just pine to come in after you, and maybe even feel hard done by watching you all warm though the window while they freeze their little tail off outside. Another thing that will help is teaching them to potty on command so you can clearly communicate what it is you want them to do.
This will encourage them to do the right thing. Otherwise perfectly confident and fearless dogs can be so overcome with fear during a thunderstorm or firework display that it leads to urination or defecation. The most effective treatment is desensitization to loud noises. This needs to be practiced daily, with the sound being increased only marginally every week or so, stopping and going back to a lower volume if your dog shows any sign of fear.
The program needs to be followed for many months and the hope is in time, your dog becomes desensitized to the sound and far less fearful. Secondly, some people have had success with pheromone therapy which involves nothing more than plugging a Dog Appeasing Pheromone DAP diffuser into the wall and turning it on.
Finally, you should make sure your dog has a safe place to head to if they wish. Many dogs will have a place they see as their den, where they feel the safest and most secure. If you use one this will be their crate, though some satisfy their denning instinct by lying under a table, or between close-fitting furniture. Some unfortunate dogs will have spent their entire lives outside and never been house trained at all. Others will have had incomplete house training and this is a very common reason for dogs being given to rescue organizations in the first place.
They might eliminate whenever they feel the urge, no matter where they are.
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An incompletely house trained dog will only occasionally make a mistake while mostly being clean, usually in specific circumstances. For instance they will sneak off alone to potty, or not know how to ask to go outside. You house train an adult dog in much the same way as you do a puppy.
Pet Problems Solved
So please follow the general tips and guidelines written in my guide to house training a puppy which you can find by clicking here. Compared to house training a puppy, house training an adult dog has a mixture of pros and cons, some making the process easier, some harder. This results in fewer trips outside for you and no need hopefully to get up during the night. However, house training an adult dog can be more challenging if they have many months or years of bad habits that you now have to break.
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Just follow a structured house training program and do all you can to help them learn. Be patient, understanding of their position and dedicated to the cause. Eventually any dog can be house trained. As just discussed, there are many reasons why an adult dog might urinate or defecate in the home. Also true is that the sooner you start, the sooner you can solve the problem and the longer you let bad habits continue, the harder they are to break. So get started right away.
Then you must seek the help of a professional dog trainer or animal behaviorist who can assess the situation fully and design a custom training plan to suit your dogs specific needs. For further reading on how to train an adult dog , please see the following articles I read during the research stage of my article:. What a great article with so much helpful information! One thing we encounter quite often is people who have older dogs who do have health issues and begin to go to the bathroom in the house.
While the health condition might not be avoidable, repeat accidents can be somewhat controlled by properly cleaning areas where an incident occurred. Because dogs urinate based on scent, they may continue to go regularly in a spot where an accident occurred. If a spot is not cleaned and the odor not completely removed, they may continue to go in that spot simply because they smell urine in the carpet. Another important piece to that is very often vinegar is suggested for cleaning pet stains. However vinegar has an acidic base with a pH level similar to the pH level of the acid base in urine.
It is very important that when cleaning areas affected by urine, it is done so in a manner to completely remove and deodorize the odor. This is where Genesis is helpful in removing pet stains and odors. As a green cleaner it is also safe for pets, unlike many household cleaners which can affect blood cells, respiratory systems and more.